Twiggy Tames Jaws

12 November DAY 1

Describe the conditions.
15-20ft with a few bigger sets throughout the day, no wind and doubling up on the reef with the long period swell. Basically the perfect day for paddle surfing Pe'ahi, not too big and not to small, just right.

Describe the swell as it filled in.
The swell came early compared to the forecasts and had filled in from first light and Ian and I  got out there at around 8:30am. There where long lulls initially with these bomb sets of 3-4 waves every 30 minutes or so but perfect light offshore and barreling like crazy. The biggest sets came in around 11-12am and then tapered down towards sunset. We came in, in the dark.

How was the crowd?
No crowd, 5-10 guys all day and 4 girls in the afternoon (Paige had an amazing wave).

What’s the hardest thing about coming back to Jaws for the first session?
Just the sheer power and magnitude of the wave shakes you to the core. It moves so fast, particularly with a 20 second period and the way it was doubling up, almost every takeoff was an air drop. I was nervous out there, as it felt like making a mistake could cost you the season.

Can you talk about your most memorable wave?
Big outside set, scratched over the first one and whipped it under the lip on the second, air drop to the bottom, lots of mogals in the wave , just made it around the North peak and high lined it across the West bowl. All at max speed with the lip at my heals.

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13 November DAY 2

Describe the conditions.
It was kind of wild and wooly early morning, cleaned up in the trades midday and became a beautiful surfing canvas. Amazing conditions which gave rise to some crazy barrels.

Describe the swell.
15-20ft in the morning slowly going down through the day but bomb sets throughout.

How was the crowd?
No crowd, the perfect amount of people for everyone to share and get waves and help each other be in position for the sets.

Is it easier to get waves on the second day of a swell?
Yes, easier today with the reduced period, yesterday was manic with the 20 seconds while today was more manageable.

Can you talk about your most memorable wave?
I had a couple of nice North peaks today that lined up through the West bowl and let me feel the whole reef.

Who was standing out during the swell, and why/how?
Dorian for sure got the bomb, a crazy big barrel today. Albie was getting slotted continuously in the West bowl and Kai Lenny is a freak. The young locals where charging out there!