The Long Route

JAWS OF LIFE: Greg Long negotiates a set wave at the Pe'ahi Challenge. Photo WSL / Scholtz

Greg Long, 32, hails from San Clemente, California, home to the Surfing Heritage Museum founded by Dick Metz, that globetrotting surfer who befriended SA surfing's grandfather John Whitmore on the beach at Camps Bay all those year ago.

Long, whose bro Rusty also plies the big wave channels, is the only guy to win the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational, the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau, the Mavericks whatever it's called now, and Red Bull Big Wave Africa, which has been defunct since 2010.

As a fallow youngster in the embryonic stages of his stellar big wave career, Long was the second winner of the Red Bull event at Dungeons in 2003 at the tender age of 19. The first winner was of course "I am not a big wave surfer" Sean Holmes, who scooped the contest with a massive barrel in 2000.

With this big wave title, coupled with eight XXL awards, wins at Dungeons, the Eddie and at Mavs, and winning the Big Wave Tour in 2012, probably makes him the most decorated big wave surfer in history.

TEEN SPIRIT: Greg Long was 19 when he won the Red Bull in 2003. Pic Red Bull / AVG

Long surfed just two of the three events run in the season - the Peah’i Challenge and the Todos Santos Challenge. He finished ahead of last year’s BWT Champion Makuakai Rothman (HAW) and Billy Kemper (HAW), winner of the Peah’i Challenge.

"To see Greg Long win another Big Wave Tour title is amazing,” Peter Mel, WSL BWT Commissioner, said. “I was there at Cortes Bank when he experienced his near drowning. He could have easily stepped away from big wave riding at that time. To see him dedicate himself and overcome any negativity from the accident is an inspiration. Congratulations Greg."

His bio on Wiki says the following:

"Born and raised in San Clemente, Greg and his brother Rusty Long were introduced to the ocean at an early age by their father, who was a lifeguard. At the age of 16, Greg moved to San Diego where he lived with his older cousin David who surfed with Greg and helped progress his skills. Greg surfed the waves at Trestles, California at an early age and was highly regarded as an up-and-coming star.

"At 17, Greg won the NSSA National Men's Open Title in 2001, and looked to have a promising career. But, Greg's passion for big surf forced him to leave the professional circuit and focus entirely on traveling the world in search of biggest waves.

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"At age 15, Greg first paddled out to what eventually would be his home big wave break, an island off the coast of Baja, California called Todos Santos. There, he honed his big wave skills throughout his teen years and had many sessions with legendary big wave rider Mike Parsons. After surfing Todos for a couple years, Long took his big wave act to spots such as Maverick's, in Northern California, and Dungeons."

According to whoever wrote the entry in Wiki, Long's win "officially put him on the big wave map, and he has since been a standout on every huge swell all over the world".

"Long has been known for caring more for the spirit of big wave surfing, rather than the sponsorship deals, media attention, and contest wins. At the Maverick's Contest in 2008, for example, Long agreed to split the prize money among himself and the five other finalists. He is also known for pressing the limits paddle-in surfing, paddling into many waves which were once deemed unrideable."

Greg Long Big Wave Timeline

2003
Wins Red Bull Big Wave Africa

2004
Billabong XXL Performer of the Year

2005
XXL Biggest Paddle-in

2007
XXL Best Tow-In Wave of the Year

2008
XXL Biggest Paddle In Wave and Performer of the Year
Long and fellow riders Brad Gerlac, Mike Parsons, and Grant "Twiggy" Baker towed into waves at the Cortes Bank off the coast of San Diego that estimated to be around 60–70 feet on the face.
Wins the Maverick's surf contest in 20 feet surf
Signs sponsorship deal with Billabong.

2009
Wins XXL Ride of the Year
Wins the prestigious Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational in massive 40 feet surf at Waimea Bay. There, he took down ten time world champion Kelly Slater and a host of the world's best big wave riders.
Wins Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau big-wave contest on Waimea Bay, Oahu.

2012
Long, with fellow big wave surfers Ian Walsh, Kohl Christensen, Jeff Rowley, Dave Wassel, Shane Dorian, Mark Healey, Carlos Burle, Nate Fletcher, Garrett McNamara, Kai Barger, North Shore locals and other of the best big wave surfers in the world invaded the Hawaiian Islands for a historic day of surfing.

2013
XXL Performer of the Year
Wins his first Big Wave World Tour title. Before that, however, he almost dies after a three-wave hold-down at Cortes Bank and is air-lifted to hospital. He recovered, obviously.

2014
Wins XXL Ride of the Year

2016
Wins Big Wave World Tour Title