On the Prowl with the Lads

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The Atlantic, the most volatile ocean on the planet? For weeks on end we'd bin getting tales of Hurricanes. For weeks there were phone calls organising big wave sessions. We scored. We scored plenty. And it signalled the start to a good season. But such is the way of Ireland. You are at the mercy of the elements. So when big mamma nature calls, you drop everything and take every opportunity you can.

This trip was a little different. We are usually lookin' out for the ultimate conditions for Aileens, or Mullaghmore, the scariest, most unpredictable wave I have ever witnessed, go ape shit! We are usually travelling with great anticipation and nerves, and the fear of the unknown, rememberin' what has happened before: a huge, horrible, insane, angry session in November 2009. Twas the biggest ever. A time when people nearly got their coffin lids nailed tight. Just ask Saffa Duncan Scott (aka the Mentalist), although he made it look like it was a head and a half!

No, it was so different, Craic was mighty, all smiles and casual chilled jokin', no stress or wondering thoughts. We didnt' really expect to see what we did. I believe when we surf her again this vibe will carry through and we will see somethin' very special from the lads, ridin' to their top levels.

Day was breaking. It was very cold. But eerily, it wasn't blowin' hard. We could see stars. We could smell the turf from fires smoldering through the night. Skis and equipment were organised and launched. We do this stuff now out of habit. No need to think any more. Tis a well-oiled machine.

The sea was rollin'. She was difficult to navigate. You were always in a bowl. Always tracking across huge swell. Prowlers is way out. But again, strangely, it was magnetised. She was pullin' us in. It seemed like forever gettin' there. Nerves and doubt began to bite as we experienced the mountains we were climbing on. Is it goin' to be closed out cause its too big? Is the wind not right? What the fuck is it really goin to be like?

Wow! Wonderous beauty greeted us. The sun shone - that's a rarity in Ireland. A big hand came down and said "there".

The tide was dropping. It was amazing witnessing what we did. But it was then we realised that we were onto something special, for none of us knew what it was really going to be like. It was all theory work up until then from Aaron Pierce, Paul O'Kane, and the geezer Mike Hamilton.

Barry had scored the last session at the Mull straight off the plane. This time it was Jem Johnson's turn to score straight off the plane. Must be Saffa style? Do you guys have a book?! I was Real Happy to meet Jem. He wanted to paddle. He had braved the airport with a nine footer. He told me that's the max allowed and only Virgin doin' it. Classic!

Al Mennie and Andrew Cotton were very much in the same vein, and the whole idea was to have unprotected ridin'. The tide was droppin. There was a big range, and we knew we had seen nothin yet. Study time was upon us. This was the second time witnessed, the first to this magnitude and there is two Saffas? Its all hush hush! Glad to have a solid crew, said Al Mennie. Whoompph! Now we're really rollin'!

I have seen nothin' like this. There was walls of water encroaching. All of a sudden, they would jack, you know, like Shipsterns. And then the most perfect lip-throw you have ever seen: such speed, and such distance. The most hollow and steeply faced wave ever. A pure, giant peak. Looks so rideable, I was thinkin' a backdoor tow in, for I knew paddlin' was out of the question. I think ?!!

I was lookin' and studying. She seemed, well, what's French for "I don't know what?" Words suck sometimes ... so check the photos. And hats off to Jem, quite possibly the biggest of the day, ridden on a borrowed board from Richie Fitzgerald. First time he picked it up, and the wee charger that does you guys proud Barrie Mottershead. The deepest I have ever seen at Aileens. I know, I have the shots.

An extra special heads up goes to adpoted Irish man, Aussie Paul O'Kane, for his bravery at ridin' but most of all for runnin' safety like no other, and piloting like the finger of God pushin' riders forwards.

What a Monday. Forget the song. I Love Mondays! Yeooooo!!