|

Thu, 19 November 2009

(At Wavescapes 2009) The sad tale of how paranoid schizophrenia went unnoticed in the tragic life of one of the 70s best surfers. Rabbit, Mark Richards and many others were terrified to surf against MP in a contest. He was aggressive and beligerent in the water, but on the wave, he was the epitomy of fluidity and grace. Back on land, he shrunk into a painfully shy shell, where his life slowly unravelled. He now lives in a mental home.

Add comment

Please don't say anything you would not say to a real person, and please use your real name.


Security code
Refresh

Joomla SEF URLs by Artio
brutube

Twitter

Wavescape
Sat Aug 08 08:34:42 +0000 2020

Saw this from the shops yesterday and rushed home just in time 😉 #sunsets #capetown #nightfall https://t.co/lLjED4ZqQe
Wavescape
Tue Aug 04 11:03:42 +0000 2020

Great commentary by Gigs Cilliers to summarise Round 1 of the inaugural #RipCurl_EPro_ZAF by @SurfOpenLeague. Go to… https://t.co/WO1eSCDKi7
Wavescape
Thu Jul 30 14:22:19 +0000 2020

Eastern Cape West -- It's cooking brah. Thursday fires 6-10ft open coast in stiff W busters in morning, easing all… https://t.co/VXpRvhxm1w
Wavescape
Thu Jul 30 14:14:44 +0000 2020

Southern Cape -- The waves be kraaking bru. Thursday fires 6-8ft open coast in strong W buster early that settles i… https://t.co/NGjN9y2QdS
Follow Wavescape on Twitter