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Thursday 19 November 2009

(At Wavescapes 2009) The sad tale of how paranoid schizophrenia went unnoticed in the tragic life of one of the 70s best surfers. Rabbit, Mark Richards and many others were terrified to surf against MP in a contest. He was aggressive and beligerent in the water, but on the wave, he was the epitomy of fluidity and grace. Back on land, he shrunk into a painfully shy shell, where his life slowly unravelled. He now lives in a mental home.

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