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KEI MOUTH to PORT EDWARD
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During the days of Apartheid this was a "homeland", a reservoir of
cheap labour for the Apartheid machine, mostly on the mines. Today, it is officially part
of the Eastern Cape, but is still affectionately known as Transkei, or the "Kei"
among surfers. This is not to say they are racists who rue the fall of the regime, but
because it denotes a very special region that offers classic surf holidays and amazing
surf sessions in remote, rural locations, with herd boys and cows to keep you company.
When you head to the Kei, home of South Africa's choicest dope and
birthplace of Nelson Mandela, it's like stepping into another dimension. Everything
becomes laid-back and rustic. It's easy to fall prey to "Pondoland fever", a
condition of great lethargy that can befall a visitor. This has something to do with the
warm climate, rural lifestyle, relaxed locals and excellent dope! The weather is mostly
fine all year around, although in the summer rainy season it gets humid and hot. Transkei
is dry in winter, when the best surf occurs. This is the best time to visit, when big
groundswell arrives from the fronts that batter the southern Cape. It's also far less
sharky, because the rivers subside and don't flood the ocean with brown, debris-strewn
water.
Facilities are often rudimentary, except in small villages that house a
resort, such as Mazeppa Bay, Coffee Bay, Hole-in-the-Wall, Trennerys, Mngazi and Presley
Bay.
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Qolora Mouth
The resort, Trennerys, is here. Range of beachbreaks and rock
bottomed breaks along a 1.5km beach. The Qolora River flows into a large
lagoon open to the sea at high tide. Nice spot. Waves are sensitive to
wind and the sea needs to be clean and lined up. Can be fickle: very
dependent on sand movement. **
Mazeppa Bay
Another laid-back Transkei resort at the Mazeppa Bay Hotel. Friendly staff.
Good food. Cold beer. The problem is, not many waves. There is a short right-hander near
the island and a left that breaks into a rip on the east side. Lots of explorative
potential, providing you have a four-wheel drive. Good fishing. Kob Inn
is a 6km hike from hotel, while Cebe Nature Reserve is 17km away to the
NE. **
Qora Mouth
One of many river mouths along the Wild Coast. Series of
scattered sandbanks flanked by rocky coast on each side. Some potential,
but summer is rainy season and the sea is often brown and muddy.
Jujura
River
Beautiful river cuts through hills to form steep bushy cliffs.
Sandbars around the mouth, while on the Eastern side a long rock point
flanks the left side of the mouth going out to sea. Sandbars all around.
Hard to get to.
Shixini
Estuary
Series of waterways leading into the ocean. Out-of-the-way spot.
Exploration potential.
Mbashe
River
Large river surges into sea, with interlocking sandbars and large
expanse of white sand. Exploration potential.
The Haven
Classic old-style Transkei hotel -
The
Haven Hotel - sandwiched between two nature reserves and
two rivers. Dwesa nature reserve lies in the West and Cwebe in the East,
while the Mbashe River lies in the West and Mbanyana River lies in the
East. Surfers go to nearby Breezy (20 minutes by 4x4) for cooking
pointbreak waves, or to Holmes Gully right near the hotel, which can be
fun. Long beaches and loads of sandbar potential. ***
Ntlonyane (Breezy Point)
Unfortunately this classic point break has gained
notoriety as one of the worst places in South Africa for shark attacks. Several surfers
have lost their lives here. Nevertheless, it is probably the most consistent spot along
the entire Wild Coast. It's a long, tubing right-hand point break, with similarities to
Jay Bay. The best conditions are in a large south swell, and southwesterly winds. To minimise the risk of shark attack, make sure you don't visit during the peak summer
months, when the rivers are swollen with summer rains that wash a lot of muck into the
sea. During winter, which is more consistent for surf anyway, this spot is definitely
worth a visit. *****
Mpame
Not a great surf spot. There is a right-hander
off the point into a deep channel here. It's best on a south swell and light northwesterly
winds. ***
Sharpleys
Reef
A rocky point break with sectiony rights. Best
in a southerly swell when the waves wrap on to the sandbank. Turn off to the south from
the Coffee Bay road, and follow gravel roads along the river. Also check Mncwasa point to
the north. ***
Hole-in-the-Wall
At the main beach to the left of the famous Hole, a free-standing sandstone cliff
with a truck sized hole in the middle, is a fun beach break. Not surfed all that much, but
can be fun. **
Mbomvu
The next bay to the right of Coffee Bay, this little wave goes off, but at only
certain times of the year. Sometimes it doesn't work at all. When it's all lined up, you
surf a small sand bank and pebble setup breaking right just off from a small river. Very
hollow and fun wave. Best at 2' - 4' in a westerly breeze. ****
Coffee Bay Point
A mellow and fun right-hand point on the ride side of Coffee Bay. The take-off zone
occurs over a small rock shelf. The wave then peels to the right and breaks along rocks.
Best at 2'-4' in westerly winds, the point can handle a slightly bigger conditions if the
swell has more of a easterly push to it. In a normal southerly swell, much of the swell
energy is expended on an outer point, before reforming and refracting around the point and
lining up again on the inside. The length of the ride depends on the sand banks further
down the point, where a small stream enters the sea. At certain times of the year, it gets
good. ***
Coffee Bay Beach
There are a number of peaks to the left of the small river mouth that comes out at
the base of the point. In light westerly or northwesterly conditions at about 3'-6', the
beach can deliver awesomely good waves, particularly lefts that break toward the river
mouth. It has similarities with Yellowsands near East London. ****
Mapuzi
This right-hander that breaks off the edge of a rock shelf and across a river mouth
is not surfed often on account of it being a fickle wave, and due to the abundance of
sharks in the area (fishermen often catch them off a small hill/peninsula that juts out
into the ocean nearby). **
Whale Rock
Short, fast and hollow reef. Best in small to moderate south
swells and calm glassy conditions. Whale Rock is around the point to the south of Mdumbe,
where a large sandstone rock sticks out of the water. ***
Mdumbe
The hardcore jewel of the Wild Coast. Yet another perfect point. This time, a
little more gnarly, and, when conditions and sand banks are lined up, this wave can break
for an incredible 500 - 800 metres, depending on how far you make the last freight train
section across the river mouth sand banks. Mdumbe is best at about 6' - 10' in a moderate
westerly or southwesterly wind. When at its superlative best, Mdumbe rivals Jeffrey's Bay.
However, it's much more difficult to get to, and has rudimentary facilities, a petty crime
problem and the inevitable shark presence. There is a camp site nearby. The paddle out can
be a bit daunting. The only way to get out is through a deep crevice in the rocks. The
only problem is that when you lower yourself into the channel, your view of the oncoming
sets is blocked. You need a wave spotter to stand on the rocks and give you the thumbs-up
when there is a lull. *****
Lwandile
One of the jewels of the Wild Coast. When it's going off, this is a world-class
wave. Best in a south-easterly swell, 4' - 6' swell and a westerly or southwesterly wind,
this point break is the perfect point/sand setup. The take-off zone is just off a slab of
rock, making for a wedgy beginning to a long walling wave that sweeps past the rocks and
joins a series of sand banks. As in many spots in the Kei, the length of the wave depends
on the time of year and the position of the sand banks. But even when the sand banks are
not perfectly set up, the point section of this wave makes for an excellent wave. When the
sand flows nicely down the base of the point, you're talking an excellent wave about 200
metres long. In terms of accommodation, you can stay in nearby Presley's bay, which is on
the eastern side of a long beach, or you can camp at the point or along the banks of
Lwandile river. It's best to hire a local herd boy to stand guard at your camp while you
surf. Alternatively, you can appoint a member of your group to do it. During the day, you
can cool off in a small overhanging cave that looks right on to the surf.
*****
Presley's Bay
The beach here occasionally hosts some good peaks.
However, you would only want to surf here if Lwandile, half an hour's walk down the beach,
is not doing it. The surf spot is just down from a small row of rustic holiday cottages,
or "camps" in the lingo of the Kei. Best time to surf is during a small swell
early in the morning when it's glassy / offshore. Accessible from the main road between
Umtata and Port St Johns. ***
Ebalow
Another great point, a rare lefthander for the
Eastern Cape. It needs a fair sized swell, preferably a cyclonic easterly swell, or an
outswinging frontal swell that comes in from the southeast. Best in light berg winds. Turn
off form the Mpande road to the south before hitting the coast. You will need a four-wheel
drive. However, the scenery and surf will make it worth your while. ****
Rame
Head
A river mouth with a left breaking around reef at the tip of a
pensinsula. The waves end in the river mouth. Best big swell, when other spots are out of control. It needs
light to moderate NW breeze and a more SE to East swell. Fast breaking
right on the other side of the beach. It's a
two-hour walk from Mpande along the beach. ***
Sharks Point
This place gets some great waves, but
is quite difficult to get too. It's in a sheltered bay, with cliffs. The point is on the
south side. Gets good when swell is in the 4' - 6' region, with light to moderate westerly
winds. To get there, talk a walk south from Mpande. It should take about half an hour.
****
Mpande
Beach breaks along the beach provide some
fun waves. There is a good lefthander that breaks into a channel near the rocks. The best
conditions are small to moderate easterly swells and light westerly winds. Also accessible
from the Port St Johns/Umtata road. There is a campsite near the lagoon.
***
Mngazi
A beach break in front of the river mouth goes off
occasionally, when conditions are glassy and the swell is in the 2-5' region. It's
signposted from the main road between Port St Johns and Umtata. Mngazi Bungalows hotel is
famous for it's seafood dinners and sunny, relaxed atmosphere. ***
Port St Johns
This is the only real town along the Wild Coast and
is reminiscent of a colonial era. There is no great surf, but it's a laid-back place that
caters for travellers. There are a few waves at the Mzimbuvu river mouth, depending on the
sand banks. Keep an eye out for sharks, or they'll do it for you. Second and Third beach,
just to the south of the town, get a few waves. Second Beach is more popular for surfing,
and there are a few decent backpacker hotels around. The atmosphere is tropical and
relaxed. Both beaches are best in light offshore or glassy days. They pick up a lot of
swell, but only work when it's small. ***
Mntafufu
Offers beach break with a right-hander that breaks
off a reef on the south side. Works best on a small swell and westerly winds. This spot is
at the end of the Lusikisiki road - you have to walk another 3 km to the south to the
mouth of the Mntafufu River, or catch a boat from further upstream. ***
Mzimpuni
A large bay including a right point break at
its southern end. This place needs a large south swell and morning offshore or berg wind
to work at its best. You can walk here from Mbotyi. It's about 4km to the south.
***
Mbotyi
A beautiful beach with waves that peak. At its best
in small to moderate east swell and light offshore northwest winds. From Port St John,
take the Lusikisiki road and follow the Mbotyi sins. As you approach the coast, the road
gets steep and can be very slippery - impassable after heavy rains. A good excuse if you
are on a surf trip during a holiday from work! There is some camping next to the lagoon,
and consider employing a young local to keep an eye on your stuff. **** |
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