ST LUCIA to PORT EDWARD
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Sub-tropical KwaZulu Natal is sandwiched between the Indian Ocean to the east, the Drakensberg mountains to the west, tropical Mozambique to the north and the Cape to the south. Hot and humid in summer, warm and dryer in winter, Natalians live in a sub-tropical paradise. The surf is generally characterised by hollow beachbreaks and exposed reefs best surfed in glassy offshore conditions early or late in the day.
In winter, southern storm swells must travel further to influence this coast. While you get fewer winter swells than the Cape, the swell is often cleaner and more orderly. The greater the swell travels, the cleaner and more orderly it becomes. In summer, the KwaZulu Natal coast has surf almost every day, especially spots exposed to the ocean. There are perhaps four reasons for this. The continental shelf comes right up to the coast in parts, which means the deep ocean is nearby. Prevalent NE winds brings plenty of sloppy wind swell. Then there are fairly regular groundswells from the south.
However, the big bonus is the prevalence of numerous cyclone swells in summer. Between November and April tropical cyclones form off the east coast of Madagascar. When they track south, they often push in seriously big swell, often confined to the Mozambique and KwaZulu Natal coast. A lot of spots are at their best in these Easterly swells. Generally, the best time to surf is early or late in the day, when gentle land breezes blow. During summer months, offshore days are rare due to the NE onshore wind, which is caused by high pressure cells in the Indian Ocean. These systems create wind swell, depending on the length and strength of the NE wind.
In winter, fronts pass closer to the area, and there are regular south swells, with SW to W offshore winds more common. Many beachbreaks don't like too much wind. Generally, the dawn patrol remains the best option,
especially in summer. However, many point breaks and protected reefs go off consistently in winter. Best time is March to October.
The coast can be sharky, particularly on the rural north coast. The Natal Sharks Board (NSB) is efficient
at maintaining shark nets at populated beaches. The NSB has developed
the Shark Pod, proved
100 percent effective in keeping sharks away.
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North Coast
Kosi Bay
The northern-most coastline of South Africa's eastern seaboard, almost on the border with Mozambique. The Kosi Bay area is an eco-tourism paradise. The protected Kosi Bay estuary is a pristine waterway surrounded by lush marsh forest, mangrove, ferns and orchids. Crocs and hippos lurk in the Sihadhla River. Loggerhead turtles nest at nearby Bhang Nek, slightly to the south. There is surf potential further south. This coastline includes Dog Point, Black Rock, Island Rock, Hully Point and Gobey's Point. Explore. **
Sodwana
This is a tropical diving and angling paradise. Large, lush coastal forests to explore. Stunning coastline. Good waves can be found on the beach in Sodwana Bay itself. Breaks left and right. Fickle banks, but can go off, breaking up to 6'. Good waves at Jesser Point, occasionally. Prevalent winds are onshore NE, but land breezes often blow at sunrise and sunset. Cyclone swell turns this coast on, particularly several secret outer reefs. ***
St Lucia
This beautiful 100km stretch of coast runs beside an inland lake called Lake St Lucia. The mouth of this beautiful tropical estuary lies in the south at St Lucia. Covered in a verdant mantle of jungle, this protected area comprises several nature reserves. There are long beaches and the water is luke-warm, around 27
degrees. With the prevalent onshores, waves seem messy and all over the place, with most coral reefs near the shoreline. However, word has it that there are several world-class beachbreaks, and one or two reefs that go off in cyclone swells. Befriend a local. Otherwise, go exploring on the beaches in the area. Otherwise, take a look at the point to the south of St Lucia at Mapelane.**
Richards Bay
Probably the most consistent wave in the area. Protected from the SW
wind by the piers, a big dredger pumps sands into the banks creating
some really fun waves. A clean, well-rounded wave, offering barrels
along the piers with long down-the-line waves. ****
Alkantstrand
This spot sometimes has the best surf, and is certainly consistent. Found immediately north of the harbour breakwater, it only turns on in SW winds and south swells. ****
Mtunzuni
This beach resort area is near the Mlalazi River (Place of the Grinding Stone) and Umlalazi Nature Reserve. Plenty of beachbreaks on wide-open beaches that stretch far to the North and South. Surf spots come and go as fickle sandbanks shift. Explore between Mtunzuni and the mouth of the mighty Tugela River, about 60 km to the south. However, watch the rain. Heavy rain inland means brown muck pouring into the sea, which becomes brown near the rivermouth. An exposed point at Siyayi, about 12 km to the south of Mtunzuni, holds potential. It works in a moderate swell and light NW winds. ****
Zinkwazi
Travelling south of the Tugela River, you find this small resort near a reedy lagoon and narrow, rocky beach. It's 85km from Durban. Some pretty good beachbreaks along the main beach. Consistent and fairly protected. A right-hander breaks off a headland south of town, especially in winter. It needs a solid SW swell and light westerlies. ****
Blythedale
Fickle beachbreaks and shifting sandbanks. But, as in many spots in KwaZulu Natal, can get classic. Doesn't handle over 5' and needs light Westerlies. A few good spots to the south. Charm a local. ****
Tiffanies
A small reef to the left of a small river that breaks mostly left. Doesn't work that often, but fun and clean when it works. Small swell, and glassy conditions only. ***
Salt Rock
Near the town of Salt Rock lies this classic Zululand sandbank/reef setup. A glassy left and right peak breaks on rock and sand. It handles a 2-5' swell in light offshore winds (NW). Best time is early, particularly during summer. ****
Umhlali Beach
Some fun beachbreak peaks along the main beach at Umhlali work in cyclone swell, after a strong NE has been blowing or a large SW swell has come through. Best in light westerlies. Depends on sandbanks. ***
Shaka's Rock
Named after the fabled Zulu chief, the surf spot is not quite as majestic, or noble. There are a few reefs and beachbreaks to choose from, pending sand movement and swell direction.
Fun to be had. Nothing more. ***
Thompson's Bay
Small, sheltered beach and small river. Starting to become a popular beach. Breaks fast and hard right on the beach due to shelving sandbanks. Nice for body boarders and bodysurfers. **
Willards
At the northern end of Ballito lies this protected beach. Needs small easterly swell and gentle offshores. ***
Surfers
Just north of the main lifeguard hut at Ballito Bay, a fast, hollow righthander breaks off a large rock. Best at low tide in SW swell with light offshores. Good from 2' to 6'. Best early, unless moderate westerlies set in. Gets super-hollow. Needs the low tide because, like most North Coast spots, it develops a deep inshore channel at high tide. On a big day, the rip can push you across the bay towards rocks on the other side. Can be a hectic. Lots of white water, closeouts and constant paddling. Built-up area. *****
Bog Bay
Not a great wave, but gets fun sometimes, depending on bumpy, fickle sand banks and rippy channels. Needs a moderate E swell and light offshore or glassy seas. ***
Tongaat
There are two exposed spots in the area, both with an aversion to wind. The point and beachbreak both need a clean 3-5' groundswell.***
Umdloti
Built up, busy coastline. The beaches are exposed to the wind. Fickle, shifting banks make for a bit of a lucky dip sometimes. ***
Newsel
At the bottom of town, this powerful, hollow right-hander has been
compared to Surfers in Ballito. The barrel is top to bottom. It handles up to 6'. Needs glassy or light offshore winds. Best at 3-4'.
****
Umhlanga
A thriving, vibrant and upmarket beach resort area. Several surf options, including wedging beach breaks and a few reefs, one of which is a big-wave spot. At the southern end, Cabana Beach (near a luxury hotel) is the main spot. It's a left or right peak. Bronze Beach offers a shifty peak. Best in small swell and light land breezes. ***
Glenashley
A big-wave sandbank found near the Mgeni River. A deep channel separates it from the coast. Handles big surf. ****
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Durban
"Surf city" has the largest population of surfers in the country. Peppered with surf shops and spots, it's an ideal city surfing locale. There are lots of spots, from mellow beach breaks to grindingly hollow reef and beach breaks. The nightlife hums. The beach culture is a powerful force along the promenade, with the bronzed surf crew hanging out at trendy hangouts bedecked in the latest, slick fashions.
In terms of the surf, the Bluff, a large headland at the south end of the harbour, blocks off the swell from the beachfront. If a 6' south swell is running, then the spots along the southern Bluff will be firing but New Pier might only be 3'
and South Beach, tucked on the inside, flat. Those spots in the southern corner of the beachfront - such as Vetchies Reef and Addingtons - are
usually flat in southern swells, but
work in Easterly swells. South swells refract around the bluff, and begin breaking only from South Beach,
the waves getting bigger as you head north, past the Wedge, New Pier, North Pier, Bay Pier and Snake Park.
When easterly cyclone swells pull through, the Durban basin fills up with swell, turning on spots like the Diary Bowl, a famously powerful sandbar wedge between North Pier and New Pier.
Country Club (formerly African Beach)
This beachbreak used to be a blacks-only beach during the Apartheid days. It's in front of the fancy Durban Country Club. It's sensitive to the tides and breaks left or right. Goes off at times, when the sand is in the right place. Offers an excellent
shorbreak. ****
Battery Beach
This beach break can be found at the northern end of Durban's beachfront in front of the Natal Command army base. It gets incredibly powerful at times. When the swell is 3-4' at New Pier, Battery can be a solid 6'. ****
Snake Park
Yes, it's near the Durban Snake Park. Good banks at offshore end of a long drainpipe. Works on all tides. Used to have a reputation of being a hardcore locals-only spot, but this crew has dissipated or moved on to other parts of the beach. Perhaps the venom has been diluted by the arrival of the new South Africa. ****
Bay of Plenty
This is the most well known of the spots in Durban, due to it being the venue for the
Gunston 500, one of two of the longest running WCT events in the world. The other is at
Bells Beach. It is also insanely crowded. It is not uncommon to have 60 - 100 surfers
scratching around for one peak. The removal of the solid Patterson groins and their replacement with piers on pylons allowing for long-shore drift probably ruined one of the best man-made waves in Southern Africa, the home of surfing legend
Shaun Thomson. What remains of this once perfect beach-break right is a still consistent break which peels right on the outside with the occasional left breaking in towards the pier at higher
tides.***
North Beach
Also an incredibly good wave when it's on. North is now more consistent than Bay and the home of a zillion body-boarders.
A crunching right-hander that barrels its way
across a sandbank. Handles up to 10'+ and has been the scene of epic barrel riding feats.
Best conditions are a solid swell and a light westerly breeze.*****
Dairy Beach
Another hard breaking wave to the south of North Pier, where North Beach starts. A good
left breaks during summer east swells, off the pier. In winter, a solid right-hander
breaks off the pier. Surf is best in light offshore conditions. Dairy Beach is more
consistent during moderate easterly swells during summer.*****
New Pier
The construction of the piers that ruined the Bay of Plenty created what is now Durban's surf central, the New Pier. Located at the southern end of Dairy beach it is a right hander which at low tide in a lined up swell with south westerly winds begins to peel from directly in front of the end of the pier and winds all the way to Dairy. It has been ridden well over ten foot, made possible by jumping off the end of the pier during breaks in the sets. At its best it is incredibly fast and very hollow straight from takeoff but what it provides day in and day out is a consistent hot dog wave for the hordes of local who call it
home.*****
Wedge
Just in front of the beachfront promenade. A left that breaks over a shallow
reef on the south side of the harbour. Works best in summer swells, which is also why you
have to surf it early in the day in the glassy conditions before the northeasterly onshore
comes up.****
South Beach and Addington
These two fairly inconsistent spots lie to the south of the Wedge. They are
usually smaller than the spots to the north. However, they can handle the southwesterlies,
and need a large swell to work. Best on the low tide. Occasionally, good waves can be had,
depending on the sandbanks.***
Vetchies Reef
Only really breaks during big cyclonic swells from the tropical depressions
that form between east Africa and Madagascar. It's a right-hander that breaks near the
harbour, off a rocky shelf, almost like a point break. Needs a southwesterly wind and high
tide. Gets good when all the other spots are totally out of control. However, it doesn't
get much bigger than 4 - 5'. Can get ridiculously fast and sucky on the low tide. Just
south of Addington's beach complex. Beware the stonefish waiting on what is the remains of an old
pier. ****
Anstey's
On Durban's Bluff, a less populated residential area, left and right peaks
break, depending on swell direction. It breaks quite far out, but is generally safe in
smaller swell. Best early before the onshore and when a moderate swell is running,
particularly if it is from the east. Reports from the locals is that this place absolutely
cooks. The main attraction is the right which begins to work in South Westerly swells and is particularly good at mid to low tide on Winter offshore mornings. It can be good in summer after the South Westerly wind blows itself out and before the wind swings to North East. The bigger the swell the further out the wave peaks on a sand covered reef that sticks like a finger straight out to sea. It has been ridden over 15 foot and at good size presents an exciting and makeable alternative to Cave Rock although the paddle out is
testing. *****
Cave Rock
Awesome. It's the only way to describe this pit-bulled reef monster.
Arguably the best big wave spot in Durban, if not Natal, Cave Rock breaks round and hard.
It throws out an insane top-to-bottom tube. In glassy conditions, you're talking
superlative. For epic conditions, a clean southeasterly groundswell is needed, with
requisite light offshore. The swell can be big, up to maybe 10' - 15', but needs to be
spaced evenly and cleanly. Gets dangerously shallow during the low tide. The paddle out
can be very hairy when its going off its face. Stay away if you don't have your balls with
you. *****
Isipingo
Works in the northeasterly onshore. Situated on the south side of the Bluff,
the onshore channels around the Bluff and blows offshore / sideshore here. It can handle
this, as long as the wind isn't too strong. Can't handle big swell. ***
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South Coast
Amanzimtoti
A concrete jungle mixes with a luxuriant real jungle. This long beach offers
rideable waves all the way along, as well as the occasional reef. Best early in the
morning during light offshores and moderate swells. Just for the record, "Toti"
has the unfortunate distinction of having the most recorded shark attacks in the world.
However, the majority of these occurred before shark nets were put in place in
1962.***
Warner Beach
Fun beach breaks. Needs a fair bit of swell. Home of the South Coast surf underground it boasts lots of interesting high tide shorebreaks to ease the summer
doldrums.***
Green Point
One of only a few real point breaks in Natal. Gets epic, say
locals. An epic wall breaks on a sandy
bottom. This spot offers long hollow waves with the right swell direction.*****
Scottburgh
The Wave off the swimming pool at Scottburgh is a typical KZN south coast sand bottom right point break which can get very good if the banks are right and have not been ruined by water flowing out of the river. It can hold quite strong SW winds. There is fierce localism around though, so make sure you show some respect. ***
Another wave at Scottburgh is the 'Pipeline'. It
gets quite good. It's somewhere south of the main beach. In a 6' plus
SW swell at low tide on a winter's morning it gets the best you'll get. It is generally bigger than other spots. Besides being fickle and sharky, along with fierce locals, it also has
a difficult entry and exit. Not the best option, unless your hide is made of kudu leather, and you're built like Mike Tyson. ****
Kelso
A few good waves in the area. Locals are also fiercely protective of their spots in the area. But hang around long enough, and you might be admitted to the inner circle. *****
Park Rynie
Pay off a local. Not for public knowledge. *****
Happy Wanderers
A right pointbreak with long rides south of Scottburgh. Good waves. Breaks from 3-8'. *****
The Spot
In a rural area at a place called Mfazazana. You used to have to pay off a local chief, or one of his representatives to be able to park and surf here. Some people drive down and camp for a few days at this classic pointbreak setup. There are no nets, so it can be a tad sharky. But well worth the risk, with great walls and barrelling inside section. Likes light northwest or west. One of the longest rides around. *****
Umzumbe
South of Hibberdene Umzumbe is a right point sand-bottomed break with two distinct sections. When they link up on lined-up SW swells they can produce very long rides. Umzumbe has a strong local crew because it is consistent and holds moderate SW winds. ****
Banana Beach
The next spot south of Umzumbe another right sand bottomed point break that peels off an outcropping of rocks can on good days get very hollow. It will begin to close out over eight feet and is vulnerable to side-shore winds. ****
Sunwich Port
About 5 minutes drive south of Banana Beach turn into a small car-park directly off the South Coast road near a large Avis sign. A right reef that needs a solid swell. Super-hollow wave over shallow reef. These half-water half-sand barrels are best on an outgoing tide in a SW swell 3-6'. *****
St Mikes
In a seaside resort town called St Michaels, this grinding reef-point-beach break cooks. It hits the corner of a tidal pool and screams into the beach. Gets really good. Water can be murky. But a really fine wave, very popular. Often crowded. *****
Trafalgar
Average to good beach break and reef but with the advantage of having some reasonable lefts, a rarity in this land of right point breaks. Also holds moderate SW winds. Very quiet spot. ***
Southbroom
Good sand-bottomed rights break off a large round rock-fringed grassy hill. Very popular with travelling surfers because it easy to find and easy to park. ****
TO Strand
Just north of Port Edward, you will find this spot where rights break off a small grassy headland. Can get very hollow depending on the tide. ****
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