A movie
was made just about this wave, it’s
that good. Although this left hander
is not long, it makes up for its
relatively short length by the quality
and wideness of its barrels.
This is seriously a wave where your
grandma could get barreled if only she
could make the drop! Where you take
off on the wrong side of the peak and
come charging through without touching
sides, standing straight up, no
pumping required just hold your line.
The Hole allows you to ride deeper in
the barrel than anywhere else.
Sometimes you are so far back that you
can’t see out, with the foam ball
licking at your ankles like a demented
dragon…and just when you think all is
lost she will spit you into the
channel like a flavorless piece of
gum.
When its head high and high tide it is
a fun wave for all. But when it’s
double overhead it’s a wave to
remember! Surfers caught on the inside
often end up getting washed onto the
beach…take a stroll along the sand
(away from the zone!) and paddle back
out, that’s what you came here for!
