30 feet, 40 hours and a Cup of Coffee

It was a crazy five days after I got an email saying that the 2009 Nelscott Reef Tow In Classic and Big Wave Paddle In event was going Green for a Thursday start!

There was a manic changing of tickets, then cancelling tickets and paying for new last minute ones eight hours before departure, with the help of True Blue. Trying to wrap up business, putting together and running a final fundraiser charter on a 60ft Catermaran sponsored by Cruise IQ, that same evening. After the charter I headed to the office till 3am, then appointments in the morning, pack some stuff on the way to the airport, pack the rest of it at the airport.

1x big wave board in a board sock, a paddle and I was booked, packed and gone ... 2 x plane journeys later, 30 hours between home and San Francisco, 1 x three hour flight delay in London due to an engine problem left me missing my flight from San Fran to Oregon.

1 x interrogation at San Fran Airport by customs for half an hour, with them ending up searching for me as a big wave charger on the Internet, just to prove I was who I said I was..

1x last flight of the evening to Oregon at 8:20pm, arriving in Portland Oregon, just before 10pm.

1x half hour wait for luggage hoping that I would have a board to surf for the event...

1x rent a car just before11pm, getting lost and droving for almost 4 hours to get to Lincoln City just before 3am.

1x 3 hours sleep, get up, fins in board, wax up and leash on to the background music of Goldfish & Prime Circle.

1x Starbucks soy latte and 40 hours later and 3 hours sleep and I am ready, ready for action.

Ready to charge 30ft surf and to represent RSA.

I get to the beach and its car’s, ski’s people, spectators, and surfer’s media.

People launching ski’s all over the place, to get through the heavy, heaving 8-10ft shore break that leads you a mile out to where the be heathen stirs...Nelscott Reef, Lincoln City Oregon.

I get a ride out to watch the last tow heat before the paddle event begins over a mile out. The conditions smoothen out and it’s glassy like silk, a big wave wonderland, and big clean walls.

As I jumped off the back of the sled and paddled into the line-up I knew it was going to be a good heat, everything just felt right. I paddled deeper into the line-up, deeper than anyone else and the waves came to me, I was late and deep, but the waves came and there was no going back.

I think I got five waves in my heat, all pretty solid, late and deep. I only fell on one wave where I thought the wave was going to barrel, so I pulled up high to pull in and at the last second I realised the wave wasn’t going to throw out as much as I thought, I tried to pull straight, but was just too late and I got detonated by the lip.

One more late big one and the heat had ended...I was told by many that I had won it, but so is life...The next event I will make sure, just bring on the waves, bring them on early..Mavericks here we come.

Great waves, great surfing and a great day of top level big wave surfing was had by all and so the winter season in the Northern Hemisphere begins.

The result ... Third place, missing 1st and second, by less than a 6th of a point.

"I was just stoked to have made it over in time for my heat, after travelling for over 36 hours. I just wanted to catch a couple waves to make the long journey worthwhile and I ended up third that was just an added bonus. As long as I make South Africa proud, I'm happy."

After the paddle heat had ended I ended up borrowing Naish paddle board missing one fin to become the first person to ever SUP Nelscott Reef, which was a little scary especially at that size.

I only ended up getting one wave, as it grew dark but got caught inside by the biggest wave I have ever yet to face, while on a SUP. Every now and again you deserve a good beating, its character building.I'm glad that one is now done and ticked off the list.

Now I can sleep and chill a little as I take a slow cruise down the Oregon coastline. Check in with all of you again next week.