Reef Rash

Monday 14 December 2009

Well it’s been a week of absolute madness on the North Shore. Bruman has been bouncing around like that squirrel who drank the coffee in that kids movie "Over the Hedge" What with the Eddie going balls to the wall and Pipe cranking for the Billabong to keep the masses enthralled, there hasn’t been a moments rest. But today is flat and Bruman finds some chill time to bring us an update and a few more of those essential North shore rules.

Hawaii 09/10 Update 4

THANK GOD FOR THE NORTH SHORE:

Waves have been absolutely firing every day for  a week and finally today it has gone flat. Waking this morning I knew before I got to the beach that it was small. Living so close to the surf I almost need not leave my house to make the call for waves or not. Whenever a swell is rolling you can hear the waves, the air has a slight mist to it and even at 7am there seems to be a buzz among the houses down here letting you know its on. This morning there was no sound and the air was crisp and clear.

“PHEW…” Is what most surfers said this morning. Finally a chance to chill and let all those aching muscles, unhealed reef/bicycle rashes, and board short rashes heal.

It also gives you the chance to stoke up on the necessary food supplies to last you through the next barrage of swell that is on its way.
SURF BRIEFING:

The swell and conditions have been world class but with these conditions have come some of the most intense crowds I have seen on the North Shore. Which can become very frustrating. Perfect barrels and none for you. But if you know how to make the call at where and when to paddle out your rewards are great. We are boardering on the time period many have started to arriving for on the North Shore, when the surfers leave and the bodyboarders arrive. The season is always broken into two very distinct crowds. The early season and November/ December is dominated by the surfers. Surfers, surfers everywhere. Then come January/February and late season the Bodyboarder move in and its bodyboarders for as far as the eye can see.
There changes are due to the contests the surfers being in December and the bodyboarders being in February.

But coming very soon here is the interlude period when a majority of your surfers are leaving and the Bodyboarder have not hit in full swing yet.

The surf becomes just that less crowded to prize the people who know about this with some uncrowded days of perfection.

LAND BRIEFING:

The RXYM Hawaii house has sadly lost some of its surfers and is a quieter and slightly sadder place. But not to worry just as we are taking a break from the water and letting our wounds and rashes heal so our souls are taking a break before the next round of craziness in the house begins, with the arrival of the bodyboarders.
Lets just say that if you thought the surfers were rock stars the bodyboarders are the ones that scare the rock stars ask to please keep it down. Mayhem….. but good times wait the RXYM Hawaii House.
The scene has been really mellow in the beat down department this year and I knock on wood. The vibe in the water has not maxed out and lead to violence, YET….

So as I write I hear the North Shore recovering from being surfer out and know that soon the madness will all start again.

Bring on the madness……


NORTH SHORE RULE 61:

Never ever, ever, ever bring your new girlfriend to the North Shore. (I have seen this rule broken many a time and seen many a heart broken in the wake of it. You just brought your lady to a place where all the hottest, fittest surfers, bodyboarders and longboarders in the world live and migrate too and they all are girl hungry with about a 200 to one girl guy ratio. Put yourself in her shoes, you just met a girl and she brings you to a model convention where the whole town is full of supermodels and you are one of 20 guys in the whole town and they all want you. Hmmm.)

 

NORTH SHORE RULE 11:

Don’t shop at Foodland unless you are on a pro surfers budget. (I sometimes wonder why they don’t put a roulette and blackjack table in the store with the amount of people who waste all their money there.)

NORTH SHORE RULE 21:

Never bring home strangers from the beach. (The state of Hawaii is one of the biggest drug problem states in the USA and the North Shore seems to be the crack heads favorite hangout. One minute the person you just met on the beach who seemed kinda cool is walking out with half the laptops in your house and has drunk all of someone’s milk.)

NORTH SHORE RULE 94:

If you burn one of the locals, escape asap out of site but if spotted stay at the beach and take your beating, never run home for protection. (When you make it home the locals will break into your house and not just beat your ass but some of your room mates too and then proceed to break your house hold possessions and drink someone’s milk.)


Stay tuned for more North Shore Rules and stories of North Shore 09/10 season.


BRANDON "BRUMAN" FOSTER

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